Hello everyone! here!

Today is about a remake of a soap many of my customers seem to enjoy: Desert Mint! It’s a wonderful mixture of peppermint essential oil, mint tea, agave nectar, and aloe vera juice. Its one of Halcyon Baths’ signature soaps, and definitely one of my favorite to make: complicated yet simple!

In this remake, I changed the oil recipe (slightly) and bumped up the superfat just for fun. The oil recipe is primarily made of shea butter and ricebran with coconut oil for bubbly. After years of soaping, I can definitively say that ricebran, coconut, and shea butter is one of those perfect combinations for me. No matter what the percentage, these oils impart the right amount of moisture and bubble factor. I never have to worry about DOS or any other sign of rancidity either. I’m also looking for more combinations that always work no matter what the proportions… there’s one combo I’m working on with cocoa butter and coconut oil, but I haven’t found the perfect soft oils.

The process begins with freezing some aloe vera juice. This is the good stuff–inner leaf. I also brewed some strong mint tea that also went into the freezer. Here’s where the mint tea I use for soap differs from the way I usually brew for my body: I double brew. I make one strong mint decoction,  strain it, and then I use the strained liquid as the “water” to make the second tea. Strain it again, and voila! I add lye to the frozen liquid slowly, aiming to keep the soap under 90 degrees Fahrenheit.


I’ve already talked about the oil recipe, so I’ll move on to the additives. I used agave nectar. I wouldn’t call it a substitute for the body or slipperyness honey donates to lather, however it does add a je ne sais quoi. It’s a great addition to aloe. Now usually I would mix any liquid-y additives with my essential oil of choice, but I don’t like to mix watery additives with essential oils because they don’t blend. Instead I added it to my barely emulsified soap and continued to stickblend.

After achieving a light trace I went and added the peppermint essential oil. This is honestly my favorite part of soapmaking–adding the scent! I mixing it into trace and smelling the fragrance bloom in the soap. Peppermint EO tickles my nose a bit, but it’s a delicious tingle.


The essential oil resting on the top of the soap. Emulsified soap is denser and the scent floats. I keep on blending from here.

After getting a solid medium-thick trace, I’m ready to mold everything. I used one of my wooden molds to make a solid, thick bar and piled more soap on top, using the back of the spoon to add some texture. A light dusting of mint leaves on top. At this point, the color of the soap was an angry orange from the mint tea; making strong, hot decoctions always results in this shade.


A wet soap pic. Even though I don’t insulate my molds, I rarely worry about partial gel because wood usually provides enough heat containment as it is. Anymore and I would risk overheating. Additionally I prefer to keep my soap uncovered because I can check its process, and I like to keep my eye on soaps that I know contain some type of sugar.

Twelve hours later and it is time to unmold. The soap is in that perfect limbo between soft and hard to cut. Because they’re peaked high, I cut this loaf into one-inch sections. The resulting bars are a good 8 ounces before cure. They’ll lose about half an ounce in water weight and become hard enough to stick around in the shower.


Here you can see how the color lightened up. Now it’s a paler mustard color. I do try to stay light on the amount of mint I sprinkle on tops of soaps because it seems to always bleed and leave little rust spots once in the bath.


Cut soaps. Recently I’ve been waiting to bevel my soaps until they’ve been curing a couple weeks.

That’s how I make Desert Mint, one of my favorite soaps in Halcyon Baths’ line! The soaps cure for about two months before they hit the shop. What’s your favorite soap to make? Ingredients? And what’s your favorite part of soaping? Do tell!


You can also find this post on Let’s Talk About Soap, a place I guest post on.



Hello everyone! here!

You know, sometimes I make a batch of soap and I’m just… satisfied. Not excited to sell it or even happy to photograph it. Maybe it’s the scent, maybe the look, perhaps both, but something in me is just unhappy with it. In these cases I usually try to remake it. And almost always, the second time is better.


Ambrosia. The first time I made this batch, the bars came out misshapen and ugly, though the scent was a delightful sort of effervescent dream treat. So I remade it. This time the recipe was delightful, though I changed the scent to represent something more honeyed. Unfortunately, between the oils (lots of butters) and the scent (clove, I’m looking at you), it seized before I could pour.

Disappointment. Can we talk about it?

Well. You win some and you lose some. So I tried again, using a bomb, new recipe and a new scent combination. Now, I don’t think I can call this soap Ambrosia anymore because the scent of clove and orange is a little less ambrosial to me… but I think I’m happy with this one.

The best thing about this bar is probably the recipe. It was the part I was the most excited about. Why? Sal butter. The recipe featured a ton of sal butter instead of just the usual shea butter. I know sal is great in skin care products so I happily added it to my recipe. SoapCalc has it on its lye calculator as well. Because I knew I wanted this soap to have a green tint, so I added my french green clay as well.


Look at how dark and green the oils and clay are! My usual oil recipe with this green clay is usually a light golden-green color, but the sal turned it this wonderful olive.

Because I knew the scent would contain clove, I substituted my usual ricebran with some olive oil. Even after stickblending the scent in, it stayed pretty loose. IMG_0694

Thin trace. It was delightful to work with. IMG_0690

Temperature shot. By the way, an infrared temperature gun is a soaper’s best friend. HOWEVER, you can absolutely soap without it–actually, you can soap without a thermometer entirely. I’ll talk about it in a later post; watch for it.

Since the trace wasn’t thickening up any time soon, I took the oppurtunity to make a flat top soap. I did a mica + oil swirl minus the mica and oil. Short squiggles across the width of the mold and long squiggles down the length. Then I topped the sides with a mixture of lavender, oats, and calendula. IMG_0695

I love this top. Do you see that line down the center? When the soap entered gel phase, it split right down the middle. By the time it cooled down, the split had disappeared. I find this happens with some of my batches. Watch your soaps go through gel phase if you have the time. It’s fascinating.

About eight hours later, it was time for me to unmold. The great thing about making waterproof, folded liners with minimal amounts of tape is the unmolding process. I get so happy once I remove the tape and carefully peel back the freezer paper; it’s like unwrapping a present!

After cutting, I tested the lather. The olive oil made the bars quite slippery. The bubbles are small and plentiful. The best thing about this bar was that the bubbles stayed. A bit foamy, sustained.


Nice. My skin felt wonderful; not too stripped, not too dry. Just clean.

Now until I used the bar, I wasn’t crazy about the scent; however, once I washed my hands with it, I loved the balance of orange and clove! Woot! I also cut these really chunky. So nice.


This batch was a success! What do you think?




Hello everyone! here!

Today is a very special day in Halcyon Baths’s history. It’s the first post about the very first custom order! Whoo hoo!

My customer wanted about 25 bars of soap for holiday presents. She sought me out, asking whether the bars could have a type of mint scent because she wished to incorporate some garden mint she grows at home. I replied, “Of course!” She handed me the mint and I started working on it.

I used a tried and true recipe, this one full of shea butter and coconut oil, with pomace olive for hardness and conditioning along with my old favorite, ricebran oil.

The order starts with the mint. After washing it I decided to make a cold infusion.


I had to break down the mint myself using a part of sharp scissors. I cut the woodier parts of the plants away, leaving the dried tender and newer growth. I also cut off the flowers so that I was working with just the leaves and stems. I also pulled out some dried plaintain and extra grey lavender flowers that I had and added it to the mix.


The tea pre-blending

Blend blend blend. I blended everything together until the water was a promising dark color, which let me know infusion was under way. Then I placed the container into the refrigerator and went to melt down my oils. While they were cooling I whipped up some oat milk, strained it twice for particulates, and measured out the amount I needed. Added the lye, waited for the solution to cool, and then strained it into the lye solution.

Blend blend. Bring up to thin trace and add the scent combo–a mixture of anise and peppermint essential oils. I settled on this scent because the customer expressed that she would like the scent of mint without it being too “minty.” I chose to mix it with anise for a clean, unisex scent. After adding the scent I blended again. Anise essential oil causes the soap to accelerate a small bit but nothing unmanageable.


Just poured soap

Texture with the back of a spoon. I cut the bars in half-inch slices. Before cure every single one weighs about 5.5 ounces. After cure, I’m estimating a weight of 5 or 4.8 ounces.

The soaps will be shrinkwrapped and labeled with stickers. The color of the labels was chosen with the color of the soap and my customer’s gift plan in mind. I chose a salmon color for the labels that would then complement the color of the towels she wanted to wrap the soaps in. Also:


This is a very subtle swirl made from adding kaolin clay to some of the bar. The soap was a little thick, so perhaps I should’ve ran a hanger or a chopstick through it, but I quite like it! We’ll see if the color changes a bit through cure time. They seem to be lightening a bit.

It’s a landmark in Halcyon Baths’s development! I like custom orders; they’re quite fun to make. There’s something about knowing you’re tailoring a soap recipe for a specific person and making it perfect for them! I was so excited for this batch, it was almost strange. Let me know what you think. Anyone also love making custom orders? Talk to me in the comments below!





Hello everyone! here!

I’ve got some new molds for you! These are proper wooden ones that I designed and co-made myself using dry cedar plywood and the help of a friend with a wood cutting saw. I’ll show you how I made them and how I line them.


After ordering the plank (48 by 24), I knew I wanted two different bar soap shapes: one a square and the other a tall-n-skinny rectangle. My ideal forms had these dimensions:

Tall-n-Skinny: 3x5x16

Square: 4x4x11

So I got a sheet of graph paper and plotted everything out. The plan was to use every single bit of wood I could possibly manage to use and get as many soap molds as humanly possible from it. After my plans were complete I handed off the plank and my plans to my handy friend and he got to work. Over this past weekend he cut the pieces. I inquired if my plans had worked well and he replied that I hadn’t taken factored the width of the saw blade into my plans and that my designs counted for the plank being an inch longer than it was in reality. Despite these oversights on my part, he was happy to inform me that he’d gotten all the pieces I needed.

On Monday I picked up the cut pieces and used some quick-setting glue (read: superglue). I didn’t want to use nails because there was a chance the plywood would warp or crack on me. Unfortunately, the pieces for the “square” mold were slightly off, so I have to go back to my friend and ask him to rectify the situation. However, I managed to get four perfectly custom-made wood molds from a piece of plywood.


Cheap. I was responsible for buying the cedar and that was it. It was $24.99 at the Depot of Domiciles and about six extra dollars for shipping. My friend offered to do the woodcutting for free and only asked for a few bars of soap in return. The superglue was already at home. All in all I got four custom wooden mold for about $6.25 each. They seem pretty sturdy, and most of all, fit my small budget. As someone who would rather spend money on ingredients, there’s only so much I’m willing to shuck out for soap molds.

The bottom line to this post is to take note of all your resources before spending $40 plus shipping for a soap mold. If you can buy the wood and find a sweet soul who will gladly cut it for you, not only do you save money but you have more room to customize your molds!


Yeah yeah sure. First I’ll explain how I line my soap molds. I use a “watertight” liner method, which basically means I make a paper net of my mold, resulting in a one-piece contraption that I then set into the space. Here’s a better explanation. I tape the sides and voila! I do it this way because the liner will allow me to pour at a thin trace without it getting too adventurous and leaking into areas that don’t appreciate such shenanigans.IMG_0641

The final liner looks like this. Takes a bit of practice to get fast at doing them, but I can usually manage one in five minutes. Tip: Line your soap after you’ve mixed your lye solution and your oil recipe. That way, they can cool down while you stay busy. Take a five minute break after making the liner, then start soaping!

The molds produce a log with super smooth sides. I made the ACV Lemon Shampoo Bar in this mold! I shimmied out my log by making short pulls on either side until it popped out completely intact. And here’s another batch waiting to finish saponifying:



  1. Choose a dry plank of plywood. I picked cedar because I like the way cedar smells. Also, choose a slab with the right thickness. Mine was .5″.
  2. Account the thickness of the wood within your plans. For example, if you wanted a bar that was 3×5″ and you wanted your loaf to be 15″ long, then you’d have a two panels that are 3×5″ and one base slab that was 3×16″ to account for the two 3×5″ panels attached to either end. The combined thickness of them adds an extra half-inch to the base.
  3. Account for the thickness of the wood saw. This is where I went wrong. If I could redo my experience, I would’ve definitely asked my friend how much wood I could expect to lose from the saw and keep that in mind when I was drawing my plans.
  4. Draw your plans! I find it easier to use graph paper and pencil, but I’m sure there are all sorts of nifty apps that you can use for projects just like this.
  5. Sand them edges. Just so that your clothes or skin doesn’t accidentally catch on them. Sand anything that’s sharp or sticks out.
  6. If you find someone who’s cutting your wood for free, give them some soap! It’s a great way to show your gratitude.

Well, whaddaya think? They’re definitely not perfect (I could stand to sand the edges down more), but they’re a big improvement over what I was working with before. I’ve still got all that corrugated plastic but I’ve already got a plan for it! Stay tuned.





Hello everyone! here!

It’s been a hard journey to this recipe, as I do not possess straight hair, but after rounds of testing (both blog-documented and blog-undocumented) and days of planning and rationing ingredients, after inordinate amounts of research and tears of joy and horror, I think I’ve finally come across the perfect shampoo bar for straight hair. And while I won’t disclose recipes, I will explain my creation process.


There were a few things I wished to accomplish with my shampoo bar. I wanted it chock-full of ingredients known for their low pHs, and I wanted several things nourished the scalp and helped regulate sebum production without imparting too much color. I’d already decided on the ingredients for low pH: lemon, apple cider vinegar, and aloe vera juice. After playing around with infusing herbs into apple cider vinegar specifically intended for shampoo bars, I found that I didn’t care for using infused apple cider vinegar in soap. I resolved to use a small amount of lemon juice mixed in with the apple cider vinegar I would add after cook. The aloe vera juice would be used to dissolve the lye.

These ingredients are also great hits for hair on their own, so I didn’t feel the need to add anything extra. However, a bit of colloidal oatmeal never hurt anyone, right? Right.

It’s a pretty simple HP recipe, but all that means is I just had to trust the ingredients and nail the soaping process🙂


First I melted down the mix of cocoa butter, castor, coconut, ricebran, and avocado oil. I melt down HP oils in my slow cooker, and it’s the longest and hardest part of the process! I hate it.IMG_0630

Next I mixed aloe vera and lye, stickblending it into my warmed oils until it reached a solid medium trace. The recipes with castor and cocoa tend to trace fast when added with heat. After this I just put on the top and left it alone.

Is it me or does cook seem to come quicker than I expected? It’s like I turn around and my soap is all gelified and such! The soap here is on the harder side of things, but fully cooked. This is before adding the superfat and scent. While I do like the consistency of this soap, it’s not the best for molding. This is the reason why I like to add superfats and the like separately instead of using an automatic one.


Cooked soap

Then comes the fun part! Superfatting and adding extra liquid. Here’s where I added the ACV and lemon juice. I think of ACV as my “base color” and lemon juice as my “accent.” Add the liquid and whisk it in. It becomes so smooth! But I don’t mold it yet. I let the soap cook a bit more to condense before I cut off the heat and let it cool down to under 160 degrees Fahrenheit. Then I add my superfat and my scent. I love adding a fragrance to soap. It just blooms in it! Litsea in particular is especially nice.

I pour (read: spoon) into a mold and let it set for a couple hours before cutting. Peep the new mold! I have a post scheduled talking about the change very soon! Just to get you all excited about it, it’s custom-made, made of sturdy cedar, and cost me under $7.00. Whoo hoo!


Unmold and cut. The bars are pretty large with the rough top characteristic of hot process soap. The surfaces are smooth and free of air bubbles.


So happy with the way this soap came out. It smells wonderful, and it feels great. It’s only improved over time. You can buy a bar here.





Hello everyone! here!

Fall is coming up, and I find myself gravitating toward things that remind me of it. I find myself taking more time to enjoy the changing scenery, the way the cold slowly rolls in, and the return of hot chocolate into my diet.

Not to mention the scents. I love rich scents with a hint of spice. Sleepy time scents that promise winter. A citrus mixed with clove. Fall is the time of richness. As colors change from greens to reds, oranges, and purples, we discard the fruits and robust florals for softer, finer things.

The most recent soap I’ve made features one of the most sweet, calming vanilla scents. I added a dash of clove just to add some excitement. It also is a full Brazilian nut milk soap. Brazil nut milk is one of the best nut milks I’ve ever used for soap. Creamy, creamy. Easy to work with. And it offers a great feel to the lather!


The freshly molded soap. I blended it to thick trace, molded it, used a silicone spatula to dollop more soap on top, waited a minute, dolloped another layer, and used a spoon to make tiny pseudo-quenelles that went on the top of the soap. The effect was a stacked type of pyramid of soap. I sprinkled home-dried lavender on top and some Himalayan pink salt. Usually I take a chopstick and poke my “toppings” deeper into the soap so that they don’t move, but for some reason I didn’t this time around.


A snap of the picture entering gel phase.


An interest shot of the unmolded loaf. It discolored to a rich dark brown after gel phase. Que bonita! Peep the fragrance bottle in the background. By this time the smell of the soap filled the entire room. Personally it smells like one of those quintessential holiday candles. So great.


Here’s the finished soaps, pre-beveling.

This is yet another soap that will be ready for purchase come November. There won’t be very many of these, but the first couple orders will receive a sample bar (read: a normal 3.5 oz bar) of this soap! Whoop!





Hello everyone! here!

Today I’ll be talking about two more soaps that will be available come November. They’re pretty, smell fantastic, and they’re chock-full of superb ingredients. I’m gonna talk about each one by one, starting with Ambrosia.


When I knew I wanted to incorporate lavender, rose, and chamomile. I brewed a tea of the three. It smelled so wonderfully herbal, like every floral tea combined. The color was some type of light reddish pink, nothing offensive and nothing that would color my soap strangely. I also decided to throw in some coconut milk because why not? One thing I was unsure about was the addition of french green clay into my mixture. While I knew it would impart a color I wasn’t sure if the color I obtained from the tea would interfere with the green color from the clay. I eventually decided to put it on the side, bring my soap to trace, and see if it was worth putting in then.

I used an essential oil mix to scent this match–a lovely combination of benzoin, lavadin, and 5-folded orange. The mix out of soap is rich, sweet floral that hints at fruity notes. However, once soaped the blend morphed into a lighter scent. It reminded me of something effervescent… like a light grapefruit bubbly soda or something of that sort. Definitely a welcome unexpected scent!


The soaping was easy, nothing special. I textured the tops and added some rose and lavender petals on top. Things got rough when it came to unmolding though. The sides of the loaves were rough, and I was forced to use my cutter to clean up the bars. They’re smaller than I wished for them to be, but they’re gorgeous and smell so wonderful!


After reaching trace. The soap temperature was fairly low, gave me no problems.

The soap did lighten up during trace, and the french green clay played wonderfully with the batch. Once molded, the soap went into gel phase. The color darkened to a deep tan-green-gray.


Molded soap. A comment on one of my posts questioned how I create textured and peaked tops on my soap. I just push the surface of my soap around with a spoon after it reaches medium to thick trace.

I’m very satisfied with this batch even though the bars had to be resized. I think I’ll have to invest in some new molds. The plastic ones just don’t seem to cut it for me at the moment. Le sigh.





Hello everyone! here!

I ordered from a new company recently. If you make your rounds ’bout the soapmaking world, I’m sure you’ve heard of Mad Oils. Just for recap’s sake, Mad Oils is a soap supply company that’s really great with supplying vegan fragrances.

But A, aren’t all fragrance oils vegan?

No, actually. Fragrances are made of various components from various origins. You can’t guarantee that the place these chemical components don’t come from an animal origin. Mad Oils understands this, and as such only stocks fragrances that are vegan. Their selection may be small, but the quality is great!

Speaking of, I order three fragrances from Mad Oils. The one I used in this post was their Gourmet Hot Chocolate fragrance. Now I’ll come back to that in a minute because let’s take a moment to discuss Mad Oils and their wonderful customer service.

I received two emails from Mad Oils. One confirmed my order and the other was a shipping notification. Once my order shipped, it was a quick two or three days before I received it. It wasn’t a week before I received my packet. When I opened my box, each fragrance oil bottle was sealed and generously cushioned in bubble wrap. There was no spilling or leaking at all.


I was watching a soapmaking video on my phone while unpacking~

In addition, Mad Oils gave me a sample of their choice fragrance, Earl Grey Tea. They also enclosed a goodie bag of sorts–a little cotton drawstring bag with a tag that had a wonderful quote written on it. And inside?


Mad Oils knows the way to my heart!

Now onto the soap and the Gourmet Chocolate fragrance. OOB (Out of bottle) it smelled like Tootsie Rolls. I caught a hint of chocolate, but not enough for me to call it a chocolate scent. Because I was using chocolate in my recipe, I used full water (38% of my oil weight), low temps, and a moderate superfat. The fragrance soaped like a dream, and I was actually quite surprised. The soap did go through gel phase, and when I tell you this scent completely morphed once the process of saponification finished…

It smells just like cocoa butter. And I’m not talking the Palmer’s Cocoa Butter scent, I’m talking straight up, unrefined cocoa butter. The only difference, and I would even hazard to call it an improvement, is that this cocoa butter scent is a bit more palatable because it’s a sweeter note that unrefined cocoa butter–no bitter backgrounds at all to be sniffed here!!

I used melted 86% cocoa dark chocolate and added it at trace. It, along with the fragrance colored my soap a wonderful, wonderful chocolate. See?


The light was peeking through the blinds in my workplace, and I loved how it played along the soap. I’m no photographer, but still, there’s something about this picture… They look like round pucks of dark chocolate in person!

This soap will be up on the shop come November. Tune in next week for another soapmaking post, more on Mad Oils and my own essential oil combos.





Hello everyone! here!

My friend (who has naturally curly, bleached and colored hair) was bemoaning getting some more shea butter for her mane. I looked at her and said, “Girl, I got you!” I vowed to go ahead and give her some whipped shea butter. Alas, the shea I had on hand was of great quality (refined and ivory, great for whipping), but the summer heat had taken its toll, partly melting it during the day and then allowing it to cool gradually during the night. The result was super-fine grains I wouldn’t be able to get rid of in a regular whipping session.


Shea butter, like most oils is made of several fatty acids with various, differing melting points. When shea butter is heated, all these eventually melt together into one analogous oil slick. However, as the melted shea cools down, these fatty acids start to solidify and crystallize at different speeds. Stearic acid, present in shea butter, has a very high melting point, and as melted shea cools down is one of the main culprits for graininess.

Graininess in shea butter causes an undesirable texture in lip balms, lotion bars, and body butters, usually responsible for the resulting product feeling gritty or difficult to melt upon skin contact.


It’s very simple: heat and freeze. Let me type it again. Heat. And freeze. Heat the shea butter until it’s completely liquid and then stick it in the freezer. The freezer forces the shea butter to cool down quickly so that the result is smooth shea butter that whips into a dream!

When you freeze your melted shea, pour it into silicone ice cubes. Most times they come with one ounce cube cavities, which makes measuring easier down the line. I like to wait a day to let my shea butter cubes return to room temperature before I try to use them. This tip only applies to applications like whipped butters and lotion bars. For lotion bars that contain shea, melt down all your ingredients together, mold, and stick it in the freezer for best results.


The key to good whipped shea butter is lots of whipping. When you first start out, whip on a low speed. As you meet less and less resistance and encounter less chunks, bump it up until you’re on the highest speed your blender can go. Keep the blender moving, too, so that you reach all the spots.


Remember to scrape the sides of your container. Then keep whipping. You should whip until your whip is approximately two times it’s size in volume. So your eight ounces of shea should give you approximately sixteen or more ounces of whip.


Don’t forget to name your result something moderately food-like for extra cuteness. Examples include “shea frosting” “whipped shea cream” “[name of fragrance] buttercream”. It really does look like frosting. You know you’ve done the right thing when your shea butter remains soft and easily-spreadable come morning.

Shea butter’s one of my loves. But it gets grainy sometimes, and then it needs to be fixed. How do you fix shea butter?




Hello everyone! here!

Today was supposed to be about coloring soap with indigo. I had a new method that was supposedly tried and true, I had the perfect recipe that would help enhance the colors I got, I had the indigo, and I was ready to soap. So I started and immediately knew something was wrong.

So let’s talk about it. Let’s talk about why ingredient sourcing is important.

Buying your soaping ingredients from a reputable dealer is so crucial to creating a great bar of soap. When you purchase something from a site, you need to do your own research first. Google site reviews, look at reviews left on the company website and how buyers used the product. Ask the staff questions if you have any concerns. Don’t feel as if you’re doing too much or putting in too much effort–YOU are the customer, and you are the one spending your hard-earned money. You’ve got a right to try and learn as much as you can about anything before you buy it.

So let me explain what happened, and why the soap is decidedly not blue.

I made an impulse buy. I bought a packet of indigo from my local Indian grocery and didn’t use it for about a month and a half. When I cracked it open and used it in my soap, it left this hideous color. In addition to using lye that was remarkably old and quite possibly compromised, I botched this up.

The indigo I used was geared toward hair. And though I checked the packet and everything seemed legitimate, I would’ve been better off using a vendor that sells indigo for soapmaking use. It would’ve been pricier, but I would’ve been paying for the assurance that the powder I used would’ve worked.

Le sigh.

But such is life! And sometimes, it’s not the soap gremlins. Sometimes it’s just me trying to cut corners and source ingredients locally, not comprehending that I’m only shooting my next batch of soap in the foot.

So it’s back to the drawing board. Have you had any soap failures lately? Tell me about it!